Manuscript - Couplage vagues-morphodynamique du littoral par principe de minimisation
Published in University of Montpellier, 2024
Recommended citation: Dupont, Ronan (2024). “Couplage vagues-morphodynamique du littoral par principe de minimisation”. In: University of Montpellier.
In the face of climate change, it has become crucial to understand and anticipate coastal phenomena such as beach erosion.
Models for studying seabed variations (and hence erosion) are highly complex. In this thesis, we developed a simplified model to study this evolution under the effect of waves. Following observations, we based our model on the assumption that the seabed evolves in order to reduce wave amplitude.
Thanks to mathematical methods, we were able to make our model generic and therefore usable by engineers or researchers interested in wave dynamics on a beach.
Tested and validated on laboratory cases, this model can be used to optimize the design of coastal structures, reducing the effect of waves, and thus contribute to coastal management and protection.