Sandy beach dynamics by constrained wave energy minimization
Published in Ocean Modelling, 2023
Recommended citation: Dupont, Ronan, Megan Cook, Frédéric Bouchette, Bijan Mohammadi, and Samuel Meulé (2023). “Sandy beach dynamics by constrained wave energy minimization”. In: Ocean Modelling, p. 102197. DOI: doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2023.102197.
This paper focuses on a new approach to describe coastal morphodynamics, based on optimization theory, and more specifically on the assumption that a sandy beach profile evolves in order to minimize a wave-related function, the choice of which depends on what is considered the driving force behind the coastal morphodynamic processes considered. The numerical model derived from this theory uses a gradient descent method and allows us to account for physical constraints such as sand conservation in wave flume experiments. Hence, the model automatically adapts to either wave flume or open sea settings and only involves two hyper-parameters: a sand mobility and a critical angle of repose. The ability of OptiMorph to model cross-shore beach morphodynamics is illustrated on a flume configuration. Comparison of the beach profile changes computed with OptiMorph with experimental data as well as the results from the coastal morphodynamic software XBeach demonstrates the potential of a model by wave energy minimization.